Friday, 24th December, 1999
Ellis: We drove to Nazareth, a traffic-plagued misery of modern buildings and resentful Arabs, and saw down a hole in the ground the well where the angel told Mary the good news of her aged fiancé’s heavenly cuckolding, and a sepulchre in a chalky cliff by the road with a round white stone ¬– smaller than I imagined, two feet, no more, in diameter – you could roll in a metal groove across the opening.
We drove through the vast fertile plain of Megiddo – Armageddon – and from the town of Megiddo itself, which looks like Goonellabah, I rang Annie, waking her, to tell her where I was. I rang her, too, from Gehenna, the Hebrew word for Hell, an ugly rock-strewn valley where babies once were sacrificed, now the location (of course) of a trendy breakfast-serving cinematheque. The biblical words still mean so much; a road sign saying ‘Siyyon’ promises, what, salvation? the city on the hill? the light on the hill? a place beyond Death where all is well? It’s a thrilling word to see, whatever it means.
O my people that dwellest in Zion, be not afraid of the Assyrian…For yet a very little while, and the indignation shall cease, and mine anger in their destruction.
– Isaiah 10
Ellis: At Caesarea there were substantial seaside ruins, and much hortatory raving from our unhinged guide Schleicher about the architectural genius of his role model Herod, and a moment when Mike, defying the sea, was like Canute summarily drenched. He slept while we drove back down the main traffic-jamming highway to Jerusalem and Schleicher, unfazed by him at last, found cause to speak uncrazily to me – about, among other things, the fanatical nationalism of Begin, and his gentle personality and the shame he felt, as one of the few who escaped the Warsaw Ghetto, when other Ghetto survivors said he had helped kill their generation then, and was killing their grand-sons now, a shame that drove him into emotional breakdown and resignation from office. Poor old Begin, revolutionary terrorists, survivor, warrior, Jew. Modern Jew.
We got out at the hotel; Schleicher begged us to put in a good word for him; lying, we said we would.
A message the desk. Our meeting with Yasr Arafat has been cancelled, our Jewish hosts, with some smugness, tell us. A pity.
Rann: On Christmas Eve we taxi through checkpoints to Bethlehem, now under Palestinian control. There is dust, the constant noise of firecrackers and gunshots, and hassled-looking Palestinian police toting automatic weapons. We are apprehensive – millennial fever is infectious. There is an outdoor concert in neoned Manger Square. A black gospel group from the American South; an Italian diva annoyed by firecrackers while she sings ‘Silent Night’; a Palestinian choir singing ‘Jingle Bells’ and ‘O Little Town of Bethlehem’ to the delight of a crowd circled by soldiers with machine guns. It seems a long way from that night when shepherds watched their flocks.
It is cold, pours with rain, and we have neither coats nor umbrellas. I fashion a hat from a large paper bag I had secured at the Palestinian equivalent of McDonald’s (premiering that night its Arab hamburgers) underneath a huge flashing sign proclaiming ‘Bethlehem Welcomes His Excellency Yasr Arafat’. Molly is clearly embarrassed by my attire, and I start to have second thoughts when Japanese tourists take my photo. We meet the smart and attractive Dominique Schwartz, the ABC’s correspondent in the Middle East. She tells us about the delights of Damascus, her favourite city, and interviews both Ellis and me about our millennium night in Bethlehem. A tall man who has been watching us whispers, ‘The General said you would be safe.’
Ellis: There was a pushing-and-shouting match between men with guns and a man wanting to go towards the front. Eventually they let him. The security there was useless. It grew cold, a cold winter’s night that was so deep. It rained. Then it eased off. I went to a cafe down the ramp and had coffee and cake and read a book. I came back through guards, young stoned smiley men who could, in an instant, have blown me away, and Mike, pretty worried, was surprised I’d been let back in. We had trouble getting to the Church of the Nativity, through jostling crowds, and security, and guards opening briefcases: Mike had to leave his camera behind.
In the thousand-year-old church (high sandstone arches, unencumbered by carvings) I couldn’t find Mike or Molly in the thronging pilgrims though I roved the entire interior. Eventually they turned up, having waited for me outside, and we got in a position side-on to the action and watched, bored, a great number of corrupt old cardinals (resembling Jim McClelland, Spencer Tracy, Edward G. Robinson, Tom Uren) immemorially chant their differing Masses till, on a large television screen, an old, chumbling Pope made his doddering way through St Peter’s. Yasr Arafat’s blonde wife turned up, then Yasr, handsomer than I imagined and very charismatic – not like Nick Bolkus at all, Bolkus is pretty ordinary – in a beautiful silken headdress, and we grew very bored, held Molly up to see nothing much, and eventually left.
Rann: The cathedral is crammed and it is a struggle to get in. My mobile phone is confiscated and Ellis is led away. Could this be his long-awaited strip search – a new kind of cultural atrocity for the Middle East?
Pilgrims with rosaries strain to see Muslim Yasr Arafat sitting in the front pew with his wife. Relations are clearly strained. They barely speak, and there are rumours that Madama Arafat actually lives in Paris and is flown out for special events. We are told the producing a daughter and not a son for the great Palestinian leader had not been a good career move. Forty priests sing ‘Hosanna in excelsis’. The Prime Ministers of Spain and Italy take communion. I make sure my Bible and rosaries are triply blessed for Catholic friends back home.
Sunday, 26th December
Ellis: We were cold and frightened outside, on the dusty wide street among young roving soldiers with automatic weapons and blurred stoned eyes, but eventually got a taxi, and got back to the hotel.
We spent Christmas Day with the Landaus, walking endlessly in search of a place to eat, on a day that was simultaneously Christmas, the Sabbath and the end of Ramadan. We got into serious, possibly fatal trouble in a crush of pilgrims at the Damascus Gate, holding Molly high in the air and hoping she wouldn’t fall down into the surging, heedless, fanatical multitude.
Rann: In the ancient spice-perfumed market of the Old City of Jerusalem, we meet a retired Israeli judge. ‘Here in the Old City,’ he says, ‘whatever religion you are, God is just a local call away.’
Ellis: This morning we went to the Holocaust Museum. There were the usual poignant, chilling photos, and Mike’s explanation to Molly of what it all meant, a big Hall of Remembrance where we had to wear yarmulkes, a collection of little dead children’s drawings and compositions, a long walk past heroes’ resting places to the grave of Rabin, a pause by the tree of Oskar Schindler, but most of all a tiny grey-haired still-beautiful female tour guide, herself a survivor, who told us her story.
At sixteen, wealthily brought up, she and her sister saw their mother and smaller sister go into the right-hand queue when they went into the left, and soon the Kapo (Judas goat) said, ‘That’s your family going up in smoke. Concentrate on surviving,’ and added, ‘Forget about the past.’ She was lucky, she said, to have one sister there to encourage her, for so many others died alone. They were dressed not in stripes, she said, but in whatever unfitting discarded rags were thrown at them. She for a time wore a skimpy black cocktail dress, and like all the rest of the women, no underwear, and it shrank as she stood in the rain for two, three hours of rollcall and she tugged it down and she tore it, and was reprimanded for damaging the property of the Reich.
All the guards beat them, some with more passion that others: the Germans, she said, were perfectionists even in cruelty. She damaged her back moving great stones back and forth, pointlessly.
Many died of humiliation – being naked (and, presumably, menstruating) in an era when even sisters never saw one another’s bodies, and with shaven heads. One wife thus naked did not call out to her husband when he walked by her in a queue to the gas ovens because she did not want his last sight of her to be this horrible naked shaven skeleton. Shoes were life, and all slept with their shoes beneath their heads. They had no laces lest they be used for suicide. They couldn’t even electrocute themselves on the wire: the guards had to shoot them so their death was the Reich’s decision not their own.
They stood for hours in the cold with the weaker of them in the middle, lest they be found to be sick and so exterminated. ‘It’s hard to listen to this,’ said a visitor. ‘Believe me, sir,’ she said, ‘it was harder to live through it.’
Rann: Every day she was abused, humiliated, starved. I ask whether any Nazi showed her mercy. She says the only kind words spoken to her were from the woman who tattooed the number on her wrist: ‘I will do it in a way so you can still play the piano.’
Ellis: They knew liberation was coming when they were put on a long death march, but were too numb and weak when their American saviours arrived to care. Many died choking on food they too hungrily are, because their bodies could not cope with it. Some were then raped by the Americans. She still wonders, meeting Germans older then she, ‘Where were you?’ and she asks Germans younger, ‘Where were your parents?’ Their silence, she says, is their admission.
She does this four or five months a year, and works in a terminal ward in Queens, New York, as a volunteer. It’s better than Florida. She is no hero, she says. She was simply lucky.
Her name, she said with shame, after hesitating to reveal it, not wanting to confess it, is Eva Braun.
Rann: We are greatly moved by meeting her and she has a real impact on my daughter when she shows her the children’s drawings from the death camps.
Ellis to Saul: It was the encounter with Jesus, or somebody very much like him, on his home ground, that moved me most of all. Here, in Capernaum, where he spent most of his three-or-five year ministry, it’s clear he was the welcome house guest of one or two of his disciple-fishermen, and while they were out on the lake casting nets he conducted meetings, or something more like tutorials, for the fishermen’s wives and their elderly parents and for visiting students maybe, advocating unselfishness, non-violence, going the extra mile and other paradoxes and gaining a local reputation, a reputation so big that hundreds – not thousands – eventually attended his Sermon on the Mount, and a revolutionary movement grew out of that and swept him up, unwillingly perhaps, into what became the Jerusalem Caper, the palms, the ass, the assault on the moneychangers, his arrest, crucifixion and death at an early age. He’s suddenly, viewed from Capernaum, a not very unusual figure at all – the brilliant, quirky student with paradoxical, upside-down ideas who achieves a campus following and ends badly (like Jesus of Montreal) and becomes a legend after his death.
Such ideas anyway come out of location, and landscape, which seems more and more to me to be at the root of character and behaviour while genetics is not. The distances tell you a good deal about what probably happened: Migdal, where Mary Magdalene came from, is an hour’s walk from Capernaum (did he walk her home? did they kiss?), Nazareth may be half a day’s walk (did his family cast him out believing him crazy? did he run away from home?), Jerusalem a good day and a half. Six hours’ walk from Nazareth is a still-functioning amphitheatre where – our mad loud guide Schleicher swore – Jesus routinely saw the plays of Aeschylus and Sophocles and may have been influenced by them, may even have acted in them, a crossover I’d never though of.
People, Schleicher shouts, forget how Greek the world he grew up in was, and how involved the Jews were with ideas. A form of atheism was already about, for instance, with the Sadducees (who rejected the Afterlife), and the celibate, vegetarian, self-torturing Essenes (who narrowly voted for mass suicide at Masada), showing how various life was in that eventful century, and how broad was the church that Mohammed thought might accept even him as the leader of a sect, a civilised outcome that might have saved the world a lot of trouble. I’m intrigued by the effect not of deserts – for Capernaum is as fertile as any lake district in Canada – but of dry heat on humankind’s willingness to cop as gospel what is told to them. It may be, truly, as simple as that.
Saturday, 1st January, 2000
Ellis: I hugged Mike and Molly and they flew off to London to visit their dodgy East End relatives, the ones he likes to call ‘the Timsons’, and I flew fearfully home in time to see the millennium in on our front verandah overlooking Pittwater, the fireworks, the dancing, the revelry, the hope.
I came to believe on this trip, for what it’s worth, that a great flaw in the Jewish character (and as well in mine, as a kind of Jew, since half of my forebears are Jewish) is a foolish lust, so celebrated in Seinfeld, for a good triumphant bargain. The quintessential Jewish story, one that most Jews remember with awe and shame, is the poignant story of Jephthah’s daughter:
And Jephthah vowed a vow unto the Lord, and said, If thou shalt without fail deliver the children of Ammon into mine hands, then it shall be, that whatsoever cometh forth of the doors of my house to meet me, when I return in peace from the children of Ammon, shall surely be the Lord’s, and I will offer it up for a burnt offering.
So Jephthah passed over unto the children of Ammon to fight against them; and the Lord delivered them into his hands. And he smote them from Aroer, even till thou come to Minnith, even twenty cities, and unto the plain of the vineyards, with a very great slaughter. Thus the children of Ammon were subdued before the children of Israel.
And Jephthah came to Mizpeh unto his house, and, behold, his daughter came out to meet him with timbrels and with dances: and she was his only child; beside her he had neither son nor daughter. And…he rent his clothes, and said, Alas, my daughter! thou hast brought me very low, and thou art one of them that trouble me: for I have opened my mouth unto the Lord, and I cannot go back.
And she said unto him, My father…do to me according to that which hath proceeded out of thy mouth… Let this thing be done for me: let me alone two months, that I may go up and down upon the mountains, and bewail my virginity, I and my fellows.
And he said, Go. And he sent her away for two months: and she went with her companions, and bewailed her virginity upon the mountains.
And it came to pass at the end of two months, that she returned unto her father, who did with her according to his vow which he had vowed: and she knew no man.
And it was thereafter a custom in Israel, that the daughters of Israel went yearly to lament the daughter of Jephthah the Gileadite four days in a year.
– Judges 11
…And she knew no man. And so it went. And so it is, on the heights of Golan, in the caves of Hebron, on the walls and streets of Jerusalem, that unending troublesome city: immoderate fondness for achieving the useless at immoderate cost. We are a stiff-necked people truly, ever seeking quarrels, and so it goes, and ever shall be.
(From Goodbye Babylon)
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